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Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:30 am

Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:22 am
Posts: 7

I've had an alienbee 800 for 3 years now. It's my only flash unit that I use in my studio. I do alright with only one light. Thing is I've been bouncing it into an umbrella. Sometimes, not all, the lighting just seems to harsh. I'm thinking about upgrading to a softbox. I just need some pointers on size, how to use it, will it fix my harshness? My studio is about 14'x24' with 10' celing. If I go the softbox route how does it mount with my flash? Is it worth it or can I just learn how to use my umbrella better?

THANKS! ;)




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Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:37 am

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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:43 am
Posts: 5266

For tips on which to get, the sales department would be a better choice. For the technical side, the softbox mounts to the light just like the 7" reflector that ships with the light. How to correct harshness will depend on your definition of "harsh". Too bright? Shadows too dark? the transition from light to shadow too sharp?




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Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:41 am

Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:22 am
Posts: 7

All of the above. Ha. The skin tones don't look right. Like kinda blown out. The transition from light to shadow is way to sharp. It just doesn't look smooth and soft. So I'm hoping it because i'm bouncing the light and a softbox will fix the problem. ??




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Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:55 am

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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:43 am
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Softboxes will help with the transitions, and Sales will be able to help you pick the right one. Too deep shadows (alternatively, too bright light side) come from a dynamic range issue. Basically, so much more light is getting to the light side than the shadow side that your camera cannot see the whole range. A second light source may help more than a softbox. A second light source could be a reflector or another light. This would add light to the shadow side, but at a lower intensity to still show shadow (and therefore demension), as well as maintain detail in the shadow areas.




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Wed Mar 09, 2011 11:28 am

Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:22 am
Posts: 7

I've tried a second light in the past. I was too hard to ratio since it's a flash that goes off when another flash strobes. Therefore the portrait was flat. Any suggestions on diffusing the fill light without buying different one?




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Wed Mar 09, 2011 11:39 am

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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:43 am
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That depends on the model of flash used for fill. You can mount an umbrella to just about any flash unit made.




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Wed Mar 09, 2011 12:41 pm

Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:22 am
Posts: 7

I was shooting through an umbrella. But the thing is I can't control the power of the flash. I'd have to put something over it but I don't know what I could use?




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Wed Mar 09, 2011 1:05 pm

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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:43 am
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Again, not knowing specifics, one option would be standard ND gels. A big sheet of 1/3 stop gel would make several gels for a speedlite. Double them up, and you have a 2/3 stop gel, triple them, you have a 1 stop gel. Typically, they come in 12x12 sheets (and larger), and that size is about $6 from B&H. If you have a local camera store or stage lighting store, they may have them as well.




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Wed Mar 09, 2011 1:31 pm

Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:22 am
Posts: 7

Okay...I couldn't find 1/3 but I found 2/3 a 5 pack (5"x6"). 2/3 is probably too much isn't?

I'm totally lost on setting the lights though. I do have a light meter. Do I set my main light to what I usally do... 1/125 F8? Then how do I set the slave if I can't measure it without another flash going off?

I REALLY appreciate all you help!




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Wed Mar 09, 2011 2:53 pm

Joined: Thu May 13, 2010 2:45 pm
Posts: 244
Location: Saratoga Area, NY

photopop wrote:
Then how do I set the slave if I can't measure it without another flash going off?


There are really a lot of ways to handle the the issues that you've been running into. It might be a good idea to study up on lighting and a great place to start is Strobist's Lighting 101.... http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html.

If your skin tones are blown out then it sounds like your exposure if off. Softer shadow transition will come from using a large apparent light source (bigger modifier and/or move it closer to the subject). As for measuring the fill, one way to go about that is to block the main light from hitting the subject. This way when you trip the main light it will still trigger the fill light but won't contribute to the exposure. Just let some of the light from the main bounce around the room and it should trip the slave. You might want to start by picking camera settings for the light that you can't adjust power on and then dial in your second light to taste. Also remember that you can decrease a light's power by moving it away from the subject (if you have room). Hope this is helpful.




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