Technical Support wrote:
The battery can have a 13V charge, but not have the amperage to provide power to the light. You would have to put the battery under load to test this. Most auto parts stores can do this for you if you wish to try this route. Given the time between the repair and now, if the unit has not been charging, the battery would be my first suspect. However, this does not preclude an issue with the inverter, which can be tested with the alligator clips included. If you do not wish to test either, you are certainly welcome to send the unit in, and we will gladly test everything for you. However, it appears that the unit and repair are both out of warranty at this time, and the repair would be subject to charge.
hi TS,
i used to be handy with a volt meter and i understand about load testing batteries.
how would one test a possible issue with inverter? should i be metering looking for certain milliamps number while unit is connected (charging) a battery? will V2 output current drop as battery charges?
Paul