Paul C. Buff, Inc. Technical Forum

A couple of things on this combo I wanted to mention...

First, I sent a feature suggestion to the Pocket Wizard folks about adding a feature to allow the modeling light to be turned off completely, so when using a Vagabond, it won't drain the battery so fast. Maybe you guys can suggest that too.

Second, I was reading the PW beta site and saw in the Nikon TT5 release notes, http://www.pocketwizard.com/upload/phot ... enotes.pdf, the Einstein, Power MC2 ... will trigger shutter speeds all the way up to 1/8000 but you have to perform controlled tests with you're equipment.

I use a Nikon D700. From your POV, realistically, any idea what is the fastest shutter speed we'll be able to achieve and with what limitations?

Thanks...

There is zero possibility to get 1/8000 out of an Einstein/D700, in my experience. The best I have been able to do is 1/400th with just a whisper of banding. Even using the newest beta that makes it a little easier to find the sweet spot, I have been unable to exceed 1/400th.

In my opinion, the real benefit of the TT1/TT5/MC2 combo is the ability to mix, match and control Einsteins and speedlights together. Pretty dandy combination.

Same here... full power on the Einstein, I was able to hit 400th. I was excited for a moment when I read the beta spec then reality came back. Anything over is a plus.

I'll tell you what though, while the CC is cool, just flipping the AC3 dial makes changing the power very easy. I understand the drawbacks to but it is nice.

Connect your transmitter to the computer and go to the PW utility. There will be an option for model lamp control. Uncheck this box, then you can control the model lampe from the flash head itself, including turning it off. You can save C1 and C2, each with model lamp control on/off.



Honestly, I cannot say. There are so many factors involved that ther is no one answer. First, every camera will act differently, even from one model to the next in the same brand, perhaps even one specimen to the next of the same model. Additionally, every power setting will act different than the next, particularly with Einstein. The shorter the flash duration, the more likely (or more guaranteed) you will have banding, at the top or bottom or both of your frame. Once you exceed your x-sync, if the flash duration is shorter than your shutter speed, you will not have a fully lit frame.

What I can say is with a Canon Rebel and no real tweaking of the TT5, I got illumination at 1/4000 at full power. It was not even illumination, but it was illuminated. Tweaking may or may not help. ISO and aperture values in this case would be irrelevant, as it was not a real world exercise.

Pocket Wizard should have a better idea of what you can get with your specific camera, as they have access to many different models, where we do not.

Can I assume that the reason I can't get my Nikon D3s to HyperSync faster than 1/250th with the Einstein at less than full power has to do with the short flash duration of the Einstein and NOT the FlexTT5/Power MC2? There is always some banding.

Thanks!

Yes. Shutter speed is the time between the edges of the first and second curtains. At all times the actual speed the curtains move is fixed. If your x-sync speed is 1/250s, then it takes 1/250s for the curtains to travel across the frame. If your t.0 time is faster than the travel time of the shutter, then banding will occur, since light does not exist for as long as the gap between curtains exists over the sensor. When the power is reduced on Einstein, it is not far before the t.0 time is not much different than t.1 times, which is virtually the same as t.5 times.

I've found the reason you can't really use The FlexTT5/Power MC2 System "HyperSync" with Einstein flash (at least not with my Nikon.) Here is how they do it with conventional flash:

http://www.robgalbraith.com/data/1/rec_ ... timing.jpg

They cheat a little by actually anticipating the X-Sync Signal and using the long tail-off of conventional flashes to light the scene. Since Einstein's IGBT technology actually cuts off the flash early at less than full power, there is no "tail-off," and no additional light gets onto the sensor while the shutter slit is open.

This typically won't be an issue with most subjects, but it is something to keep in mind.