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Sat Dec 03, 2011 5:41 pm

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 12:24 pm
Posts: 38

tetrode wrote:
Dave Jr wrote:
...
But, I'm not sure what they were thinking with the design, there is not enough relief to clear the strobe mount, even collapsed, so I had to mount the strobe upside down. Also, it does interfere with the rear flap closure, as you mentioned. Still works, but I wish I had ordered the one you have, without the pivot clamp.


I was concerned about that, Dave, which is why I opted for the "plain" version. With your version, it does appear that inserting a 1/4" - 3/8" riser/spacer between the ring and its base would provide enough clearance for the Einstein to be mounted in the proper orientation:

Image

What I can't tell from OEC's photo is whether the nut identified with the question mark would interfere with the E640's light stand mount.

Dave F.


The Einstein mount clears the nut by about a half inch, I've borrowed your image from above and added a line showing where the pivot mount intersects the Einstein mount. Good guess, it looks to be about 3/8", although I think the spacer would need to be 1/2" or slightly more to allow a little wiggle room to get the mount fingers set in the best position. I am not very handy (and certainly can't machine aluminum like you do), so I'll probably just use the thing mounted upside down.

Image




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Sat Dec 03, 2011 8:15 pm

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 1:19 pm
Posts: 164

Dave Jr wrote:
.. Good guess, it looks to be about 3/8", although I think the spacer would need to be 1/2" or slightly more to allow a little wiggle room to get the mount fingers set in the best position. I am not very handy (and certainly can't machine aluminum like you do), so I'll probably just use the thing mounted upside down.


It wasn't a guess, Dave; I measured. I don't think I'd be very happy having to mount my Einstein upside down. I would think that 4 standoffs like these (with the proper threading):

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Hex-St ... Pid=search

or these (for use with longer screws):

http://www.mcmaster.com/#unthreaded-spacers/=f7ik4l

would do the job nicely if you don't want to tackle any metal fabrication.

Dave F.




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Sun Dec 04, 2011 9:31 pm

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 12:24 pm
Posts: 38

Hey Dave, thank you for those links, very helpful. I did some measurements and found I needed a slightly longer version (the male threaded portion) of the Grainger standoff, and found one at McMaster-Carr and ordered four of them to try. Jeff at OecCamera was very good about it, looked for a solution on his end, but in the end, he gave me a $20 discount to find my own. I'll let you know how it ends up.

Thanks again.

Dave




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Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:00 pm

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 1:19 pm
Posts: 164

Dave Jr wrote:
Hey Dave, thank you for those links, very helpful. I did some measurements and found I needed a slightly longer version (the male threaded portion) of the Grainger standoff, and found one at McMaster-Carr and ordered four of them to try. Jeff at OecCamera was very good about it, looked for a solution on his end, but in the end, he gave me a $20 discount to find my own. I'll let you know how it ends up.

Thanks again.

Dave


This is the PCB Technical Forum and we've strayed pretty far afield in this thread but, hopefully, the moderator(s) will allow me to offer you one more option for using the OEC speedring with your Einsteins. Here's what I've done:

I drilled out the 3/8" threaded hole in the ring's mounting platform using a 3/8" drill. In the hole, I installed this adapter:

http://www.adorama.com/LTSA3858.html

Installed it looks like this:

Image

With this adapter in place, the ring can easily be used on heavy duty swivel like this:

Image

But the real magic is in the other set of holes. With a length of 5/8" aluminum rod and a standard griphead, the ring can be mounted like this:

Image

Image

I did drill a small dimple into the front of the aluminum rod to prevent the ring from twisting to one side and also installed an 8-32 screw that can be seen poking out of the grip head. The screw prevents the assembly from flopping to one side or the other when the grip head is loosened to aim the light. The aluminum rod also serves as a handle. The back end is covered with a length of heat shrink tubing.

If you're not happy with the spacer solution, this approach works *very* well.

Dave F.




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Wed Dec 07, 2011 11:17 am

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 12:24 pm
Posts: 38

tetrode wrote:
This is the PCB Technical Forum and we've strayed pretty far afield in this thread but, hopefully, the moderator(s) will allow me to offer you one more option for using the OEC speedring with your Einsteins. Here's what I've done...

If you're not happy with the spacer solution, this approach works *very* well.

Dave F.


Dave, agreed that we have strayed, yet this is all related to concerns about using heavy modifiers on Einsteins, or overly stressing the faceplate mount, and ensuring the big modifiers don't fall off. You have presented many excellent options for people that are worried about the issue.

Your latest effort is brilliant. I happen to use the Cheetah C-Stand, which has a high minimum height to begin with (which you noted in a helpful comparison thread vs an Avenger C-Stand). This mod has the added benefit of a much lower profile vs using the pivot clamp. The robust handle is a great bonus. I really appreciate the time and thought you have put into this. Hopefully other readers will find it valuable as well.




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Fri Dec 23, 2011 10:25 am

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 12:24 pm
Posts: 38

Dave, I have completed your latest mod, and if I can do it, anyone can :D

Thanks again, this is an excellent solution for large modifiers.




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Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:13 pm

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 1:19 pm
Posts: 164

Dave Jr wrote:
Dave, I have completed your latest mod, and if I can do it, anyone can :D

Thanks again, this is an excellent solution for large modifiers.


That's very gratifying to hear, Dave. I'm glad it worked out for you. I've made a few minor changes to my setup since we last talked about it (and I do mean minor):

Image

I shortened the aluminum rod and stuck on a handlebar grip from a child's bicycle in place of the heat shrink tubing that was originally there. The grips (it was a pair) have 5/8" openings so they're very photo grip friendly. I found them on eBay.

The other change was replacing the anti-twist screw with a shorter one. The head of the screw can just be seen sticking up from he grip head.

This is now my standard setup for softboxes/octaboxes.

Dave F.




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Tue Jan 24, 2012 5:23 pm

Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:23 pm
Posts: 53

So, who is going to start manufacturing these in volume?




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Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:10 pm

Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 7:13 pm
Posts: 3

tetrode wrote:
Dick Hertz wrote:
Nicely done. What speedring are you showing with that integral mounting foot as part of the aluminum casting? I sure like that.

Even with the PCB 32-by-40-inch softbox is mounted on my Einsteins, the speedring insert does indeed pull away from the face plate by roughly 1/8". The union is not solid. I haven't dropped one yet, but I do find myself paying undue attention to the mount, when I should be fully focused (no pun intended) on the shoot.


Thank you! Before answering your question regarding the speedring, I wanted to demonstrate visually that this approach is compatible with boom use:

Image

Again, it's the speedring not the strobe that is physically attached to the boom's Avenger D700 drop down pin. The added benefit (apart from being able to use the umbrella tube support rod) is that the Einstein and its display panel are right side up.

Now, the speedring: That was a recent discovery. It's sold on eBay by Oeccamera. You can find them here:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... +Speedring

Dave F.



So that speedring can be used with almost every softbox out there? because it has 16 holes?
Are the 8mm holes standard size that fits all brands?




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Thu Oct 11, 2012 10:04 pm

Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 1:19 pm
Posts: 164

multipass wrote:
So that speedring can be used with almost every softbox out there? because it has 16 holes?
Are the 8mm holes standard size that fits all brands?


Yes, that speed ring is compatible with strips, squares, rectangles, octas, and 16-sided modifiers (like the Rimelite Grand Boxes).

The rod holes are compatible with almost everything. The rods that came with my Photek Illuminata will not fit (too large). Also incompatible is the one softbox I own with 1/8" (or so) rod ends. Everything else is fully compatible.




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