Paul C. Buff, Inc. Technical Forum

I'd like to create a custom sync cable for a ceiling mounted AB400 and it would be easier and cheaper to use some existing modular phone cable to run the 20 feet to where I can reach to plug in a wireless remote or a wired sync cable.

I figure I could use the RJ11 Remote port on the back of the AB400 and wire that to an 1/8 female miniplug.

However, I don't know which of the wires coming from the RJ11 plug control sync. From a quick test with my multimeter, it looks like the first 2 pins of the connector (left to right looking at the back of the flash unit Remote port) are for sync.

Is this correct?

Should there be any problems with wiring up a sync cable this way?

Thanks!

-steve

If you are just using it for sync, I would use the 1/8 sync jack on the AB and not the RJ11 interface. Then run the appropriate wire for just that to a CSR or CSRB non+.
But if your are going to want to control the AB with a Cyber Commander in the near future, then using the RJ11 phone line connected to a CSR+ or CSRB+ sounds to be the way to go. I only say this because trying to guess what all the connectors do on the AB RJ11 could lead to more headaches than whats it's worth.

RMS

You dont want to use the RJ11 jack as a standard sync jack. In doing so, you can lose the ability of adjusting the light output, or even getting the unit to respond. It is designed so that input is needed from all four connectors. If you are DIY capable, and want a rather inexpensive solution, you can solder 1/8" mono jack to a speaker wire and then whatever else on the other end.

TS,

Thanks for the reply. I'm very DIY capable - thus the reason for my request.

My secondary goal for wanting to know the wiring layout for the remote connector was that I thought I might try to build a single channel wired remote (like a baby LG4X) as a home electronics project.

So - if you guys are willing to share that information, I'd be very grateful.

While that does sound like a fun project, we are unable to share that information.

Just monitor the levels of the RJ11 lines coming from your Bee with an old scope, or digital recording scope, and see what goes on when it's plugged into a CSR+ at the other end. Check when it's idle, when a CC is setting output, or modeling lamp levels, and when firing. It shouldn't be too tough to figure out the routine and mimic it. It's always easier after someone else does the hard initial design work. Then again, it's a lot of time and effort to spend trying to homebrew an already very inexpensive wheel......