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| 22" Silver Beauty Dish, Sock + Grid http://www.paulcbuff-techforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3736 |
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| Author: | Thann [ Thu Oct 11, 2012 2:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | 22" Silver Beauty Dish, Sock + Grid |
Hi there. As the subject indicates, I have a 22" silver beauty dish. It's fabulously intense when I need it to be and the sock gives me the ability to soften it when I need to go softer. The question I have is regarding the 30deg grid I also have - I've only ever used it without the sock and I may need a softer look in an upcoming shoot BUT still need to control spill. Is it possible to sock first then grid? My moderate understanding of light is telling me that socking after gridding will decrease the effectiveness of the grid. |
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| Author: | Technical Support [ Fri Oct 12, 2012 9:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 22" Silver Beauty Dish, Sock + Grid |
Yes, socking after gridding would effectively eliminate the grid effect. It should be possible to sock then grid, but it will be a tight fit, and may wear out the sock at an accelerated rate. This would give a softer, yet controlled light, such as what you are looking for. |
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| Author: | mrscott [ Tue Oct 16, 2012 3:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 22" Silver Beauty Dish, Sock + Grid |
DIY options. Instead of possilby messing up your sock, you can use 'Savage Translum' and cut it down to 22" to diffuse the BD inside the grid. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4 ... usion.html FYI - IF you place any diffusion that close to the inside of the grid (touching it) it will bounce more light around inside the honeycomb and change the grid effect. It will act more like its 75 instead of 30 degrees and a much 'softer' transition from light to dark... Also, make sure to include 3 or 4 "tabs" when you cut the material so they can be pulled tight between the grid and edge of the BD. Since the material is non-rigid plastic the tabs are the only things to keep it tight. IF you want to build a 22" "softbox" with grid using the HOBD from PCB, there is another option I've tried. Swap the metal deflector out with a 16" or so circle of Translum... Cut the Translum around 16" and center the deflector so that you can 'mark' a hole for the aluminum support. Use a pair of washers to support the material once the screw is secured that is used to hold the metal deflector in place. Once inserted into the BD you will then have internal diffusion about 1/2 the depth of the HOBD. This will effectivly rid any reflections from the classic BD donut you see in eyeballs, glasses, etc. In this order: shaft, washer, 16" translum disc, washer, screw DON'T use the modeling light!!! In the end however, you will be much better off with exacting exposures from a light meter for example, rather than attempting to 'soften' the light from the BD. |
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