Paul C. Buff, Inc. Technical Forum

Having your AB fllash not go off during a high pressure photoshoot because of an unreliable 1/8 sync socket connection is frustrating. I am surprised that there isn't more complaints about this on the forum here. We have just lived with this issue for the last 8 years in our photo studio.

First off, I would like to say that the AB lights (we have 8 of them 1-AB1600, 4-AB800, 3-AB400), are workhorses. The oldest we have is a pair of AB800 lights that are over 8 yrs old, and have done close to a million flashes. This is without even changing a flash tube.

However the weak link on these lights is their 1/8" sync socket. We use cheap ebay RF triggers with our Canon cameras. These ebay triggers have also been very reliable, and we wish the AB sync socket were as good. I just want to document our experience in hopes that it will help the larger community

To start with, we had to interface the 1/4 plug on the ebay triggers to the 1/8 socket on the back of the bees, with a simple 2" long 1/4 to 1/8 converter. What we found is that the AB would randomly and for no reason, not go off, even though the red light would be flashing on the trigger receiver. (red light on the ebay receiver blinks when the flash is triggered). If we wiggled the plug in the back of the AB, it would resume working. I also found that these 1/4 to 1/8 converters themselves were unreliable, so have replaced them with 1/4 to 1/8 pigtails with about 12" of wire, which we can loop over the top of the flash to eliminate any strain on the 1/8 sync port. Having the 2" of converter sticking out the back of the AB sync socket didn't seem to help things. Replacing this with a pigtail converter helps, reducing the leverage on the AB sync socket, but we still have flashes that don't happen for no apparent reason. We still need to wiggle this plug, on all of our lights, even the new ones. It doesn't happen on every photoshoot, but usually once per day, you will have to wiggle the connection.

Paul C Buff tech supports suggestion was to use a pigtail converter such as we are using from flash zebra:

http://flashzebra.com/products/0110/index.shtml

The ebay triggers we use are similar to these:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/3-Receivers-Stud ... 27c8b3c451

Get better cables?
FWIW, I've never had problems w/ Radiopopper JrX triggers. They give you a high quality 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable that fits snugly on AB units despite being a stereo cable.
I used fishing line to hang the trigger from the umbrella screw on the B1600 or off a lightstand knob.

If you're using that flashzebra connected, I'd consider cutting the cable and splicing/soldering to the one out of your triggers...or just consider getting better triggers. What drove me to the RP was the fleabay V2 triggers when they worked fine most of the time except one shoot outside where they didn't fire 25% of the time...

I don't recall if I asked if you experience the same same issues if running a standard PC cord to the light from the camera. If not, this will trouble shoot if the issue is in the sync jack, or perhaps the cords.

Additionally, the leverage exerted from an adapter and cords alone should not typically affect the sync jack in and of itself. However, I presume problems with an atypical sync jack could be exacerbated by the additional leverage. This extra protrusion would also be more prone to impact (not saying it was or was not an issue in this case).

My recommendation for the pig tail was more of an ergonomic suggestion than a reliability recommendation.

This issue happens regardless of whether you are using the AB supplied sync cable, or the wireless trigger. The point of bad connection is inside the AB in the 1/8" socket.

While there were sometimes that the issue was the cable, I was able to determine that. This caused the movement from straight 1/4 to 1/8 adapters that would only work for 6 months before they died, usually with their ends getting loose (cheap junk). Once we went to the pig tails, we have had no further cable issues in 18 months. I have to admit that one of the ebay triggers finally bit the dust after 7 years of hard use. It's twin brother is still working fine. With that much use, I figured that retirement was near so got some new triggers. I don't feel that the ebay triggers owe me anything. (ymmv)

I just ordered an Einstein with a Cyber Commander, and we'll see how we like this system. I can see retiring all the AB and going to Einsteins potentially. The AB all still work fine, and I imagine that the AB will still have decent resale value.

I just had a raft of new complaints from studio staff, and can now say that 4 of our 8 AB have broken or partially broken 1/8" sync ports. If they are used in slave mode they work great. Put a trigger on them, and its hit and miss. Mostly miss.

I have been having the same issue with a different brand of strobes I have had for a few years. The company has deceided to replace them even thouogh they are out of warranty service. That made me happy byt came here to look at the PCB's. I can see that the PCB's are also experiencing this same issue. The jacks are cheeply made and mosy likely are the main cause of the fault. I dont have the time nor the possibility of faulure because thes units are made with budget connectors.

Are the sync jacks plactic or mettalic in contruction?

The sync jacks are plastic, and are a rare point of failure. However, given the fact there is something inserted on removed every time the light is used, failure will eventually happen. This will usually be in the internal components, and not as a result of the housing.

Interesting that I received my AB800 yesterday and the sync jacks are made of a metallic substance. Was this a change from the original?

The contacts are made of metal, otherwise they would not be conductive. You will also have insulators made of plastic, otherwise they would not insulate. So you will have a little of both in every sync jack. There is a frame, or a housing if you will, that could be one or the other. Ours have a plastic housing, and that is not visible from the outside of the light.

I was referring to the housing and the visible bevel being metal! thanks for the sarcastic reply