Paul C. Buff, Inc. Technical Forum

Hello,

Probably 3-4 years ago I purchased a CST and two CSRBs. As far as being a nice tool for a novice to learn on, they have been fine; but using them professionally, they have been very unreliable. I often need to unattach and reattach everything regarding the triggers and transmitters, and restart all the equipment several to many times during any kind of shoot to continue. Transmitter removed from camera, trigger port cables removed and reattached. Flashes will just stop firing out of the blue. Getting the system started up at the get go requires this process several times as well.

Has any of this been addressed in any of the newer models? I guess I like th form factor of the PCB product, but I want something more reliable, or professional grade. The price point is at the pro-sumer level, but quality of what I purchased was not.

Any thoughts, or are the products still the same design?


Thanks!

Hi, Piltwort

I am not a PCB employee and cannot speak on their behalf technically, but I do have long experience with triggers of various brands including PCB's. I have used theirs extensively and regularly over the past 3+ years. The only firing issues I have ever had have always come down to the most fault-prone "link in the chain", and that is sync cables.

Specifically, sync cables with PC connectors have given me the most trouble. I have had trouble even with the more expensive cables that are threaded and screw in. A speedlight could be firing fine one moment via a CSRB+, and the next moment it does not. I hate the PC connector form factor with a passion, and avoid them whenever possible. On the other hand, with the very same CSRB+ units and using sync cables that are either 3mm or 2mm mini-jack, I have never experienced the same troubles. Unfortunately, some gear only gives you a PC sync port. Most Nikon Speedlights that do give you a sync port have the PC connector type.

So I guess my question is - are you attaching your triggers to any gear that has PC sync ports?

Craig

httpS://www.craigwasselphotoart.com

Craig,

Thank you for your reply!

That makes good sense. Let me spin this question in a different direction. Do you or anyone else have a recommendation on a third party brand flash that is most reliable with with PCB setup? I run canon, and use a 550EX and a 430 of some sort, but I am thinking about going nissin, bolt, metz, maybe even yonguo for quantity.

I'm planning to add more or replace triggers, and when I do my research, the PCB solution still comes up as the best value on paper - if I remove my personal experience from the mix.

Thanks again!

My pleasure, Piltwort

If you are going with the PCB triggers - which means going with manual metering and no TTL - then my recommendation would be to look at the LumoPro LP180 quad syncs. They are manual-only speedlights, BUT have 4 different ways you can fire them: via the miniphone sync port, via dumb slave, via hotshoe (albeit manual only, no TTL), and via PC sync port (yuck). When it comes to firing a remote speedlight via a PCB trigger (or any other), I reach for a LumoPro before I reach for one of my SB-800's SOLELY because of mini-phone sync ports being a more reliable connection than those aggravating, frustrating PC sync ports.

On a side note, dealing with any sync cable at all - and many of the other shortcomings of speedlights - is why over the years I reach for an Einstein e640 first, and even when shooting on location. I still take speedlights, but they are mostly used for quick, small, accent lighting behind a subject rather than for key light.

Craig

httpS://www.craigwasselphotoart.com

It's all PC sync ports with hot-shoe adapter thing; a real mess of connections.

I ordered two LumoPro flashes. I'll see how they work out, and since I needed flashes anyhow, it's not out of my way.

Thank you for your advice!

This is atypical of the remotes, which usually provide years of trouble free service with maybe cable and battery replacements.

As described, you have taken a shotgun approach to rectifying the problem, which is understandable when in the middle of a shoot. However, if possible, having a systematic approach to trouble shooting will isolate the problem, which may turn out to be a flash setting, a bad cord, a compatibility issue or a remote issue.

For starters, when the lights quit firing, before any corrections, does the light fire from its own test button? What about the receiver test button? What about the transmitter's test button?

And these are only being used on speedlights, is that correct?

The lights do not fire from the transmitter test button. They do fire from the receiver test button.

Only speedlights, yes 550ex and a 430ez I think.

Fresh batteries all around, no difference.

Buying flashes wasn't a shotgun approach; I was shopping for flashes anyway and Craig re-enforced some opinion on the LumoPro.

I understand. When I say "shotgun approach" I meant removing/resetting everything, presumably all at once.

Do both lights quit firing simultaneously? Or does it happen one light at a time? Or does it vary? Are you certain your ready lights are on when they quit firing? Have you extended the sleep timeout function or turned it off completely on the flash units?

Both lights at the same time; sleep function is disabled and I double check those setting before getting started.

Ok, that points back to the transmitter.

When the flashes stop firing, and you press the test button on the CST, does the LED on the CST blink? When you press the shutter button, does the LED blink? In other words, is the LED blinking, but the flash still does not fire? How many times does the LED blink when it does?

Is this a new problem, or has the problem been present for some time? How many times have you put a new battery in the CST?