Paul C. Buff, Inc. Technical Forum

Set up: 3 AB400 on Freq. 15, channels 1 (main) 3 (fill), 5 (hair),; 2 AB800 on same freq. Channels 7 & 9 Backdrop. Strobes fired by CST.
I love this systems when it works. Problem is that it doesn't - help. I'll spare all the first two times I tried to get this set up to work. CS recommended that I change to freq 15 as it is less likely to be affected by everyday interference. Did it tested the set up, finally works! Unplugged all the lights and left. I returned to the studio, plugged in all lights, turned on the cc and hit refresh. I changed a modifier so I had to remeter the lights. All went well until I changed to all. When I hit the meter all strobes popped, but I got nothing for a reading (something like <F1), and a yellow bar appeared under lights 5 and 7. The CC would trip those strobes but would not return any meter reading. I tried unplugging them to refresh, and hit refresh - nothing. I unplugged all the lights and replugged them in, but 5 and 7 still would not read and no all reading could be had. Also, on my main (B400 in a reflective upbrella only about 3.5 feet from me would only read 5.3 at 100 iso, 250 shutter. I moved the brolly closer, but still got the same reading - stuck the cc right in the light...and got the same reading. Why would it stick like this. Does anyone have a know of a good trouble shooting guide that give results? You know..if this happens, do this; if this happens don't do this? I finally bailed on the dream of a complete remote set up, and disabled all but 1 and 5. The meter readings I got from these using the CC was totally unreliable. What did I do wrong. Seems a manual on a tested product would cover these issues. All suggestions welcome.

First, when you say you "unplugged your lights", do you mean power or remotes? Did you unplug the power from the recievers? Did you still have white dashes and vertical blue bars under all non-responding channels?

Also, go to SETUP>FLAHSMETER and look in the upper right corner. Under "CAL", is the value -0.0f? If not, what is it?

I did figure out a mistake that I had made. I may have been firing the lights instead of metering them. I now realize that the right stick is for firing lights, and the left is for metering. I'm not sure why anyone would want to fire a light other than to meter it, but it is what it is, and I may have been firing 5 & 7 instead of metering them. Still leaves me with the issue of not getting an total meter reading when I go to all.

Here again, if I pushed the right stick when I was in the all meter mode, what would be the reading at the top of the meter? Is that why I am getting the <F?.

Is there any purpose for the SETUP>FLASHMETER other than changing ISO, shutter speed, and calibration?. I know you can run the channels and meter them, but why, if you have to do it in the meter mode? My assumption is that this sets the power relationships, but lacking clear explanation in the "manual" I am guessing. There isn't any screen shots or explanation in the "manual".

To answer your question. Checked all Freqs. & channels to make sure nothing had switched them. Totally unplugged the remotes at the remote, took plug out, opened all model buttons, and removed RJ plug; reversed process to reboot. Hit refresh on in the meter mode. All lights showed up, but there was a yellow dash under lights 5 and 7 - the ones that would not meter. In my mind that is telling me that the output of the flash is below the parameters, but pushing the power had no effect. Again, could be because I was firing the flash instead of metering it.

Lastly, if I do a complete re-setup on the Frequency and channels that I am using now, and then save on the same SD1 (example) will it wipe out possible conflicts that happeend in the previous saved set up?

Thanks TS. Responses (even pot shots:) from other experienced users welcome.

first, firing the lights will dump power after a power adjustment. Also, it can verify response of lights. If you had metered, then returned to the camera, then hit the meter button to do this, then your meter reading would be changed to an inaccurate value.

If you are getting <f1.0, then the light meter did not read enough light to register an aperture of more than f1.0. This could be from an insuficient power flash output, improper meter use, or a calibration offset dialed in, or a combination.

If you get an f-.-, then there has not been a valid reading on the selected channel(s). If you take a reading in the all channels, then adjust a single channel, the all channel will read f-.-. This is due to a change in the set up, and it cannot know what teh new reading would be without remetering.

The flash meter window can be used to meter the flashes so you can work with the meter as you adjust the parameters.

Completely redoing the set up will wipe out any gremlins, however, the "light settings" parameters will not be adjusted.

Thanks,

so am I supposed to meter with the left and dump with the right? Seems that if I lowered the power with the CC while in meter mode, dumped with the left (I know the reading will be wrong) and hit the left again I would get the "dumped" meter reading. If I increase power (staight increase -no up, then down, then up. I should only need to meter with the left stick correct?

Just so I am clear, you wrote-
"If you get an f-.-, then there has not been a valid reading on the selected channel(s). If you take a reading in the all channels, then adjust a single channel, the all channel will read f-.-. This is due to a change in the set up, and it cannot know what teh new reading would be without remetering.

This scenario contemplates that I went back to a channel, changed the power, but did not re meter the channel; and then went back to ALL and re metered. Note a likely one for me, as I have got all the lights where I want them before I go to all. Just want to be sure I am hearing what you are saying, so i can recognize to go back and pop a read on that channel if I forget.

The SETUP>FLASHMETER is the one I was referring to. The only thing that I can see this doing is setting ISO, Shutter, and calibrate. I guess the reason that you can take a reading on individual channels is so you can calibrate. Am I right, or is there some other reason to take a reading on the channels in this set up menu?

Going to do an overwrite, and see where it goes from here. Thanks

Meter with the right (as you face the screen) dump with the left. If you meter, then lower power, the meter reading will keep pace with the change. So, if you meter at f/11 and lower power by one stop, the meter would show f/8 without remetering. The first flash will be brighter than this (unless you wait for the light to auto dump), so if you remeter too soon, you will get a nonrepresentative reading of the power settings, then will have to remeter. If you leave the metering alone, then the correct reading will display.

Yes the reappearance of "f-.-" in the ALL channel setting would be if you metered all, went to one channel and changed power level.

Yes, the metering option in SETUP>FLASHMETER would be for set up/calibration purposes. Your working apertures would be obtained in the default FLASH screen.