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Thu Oct 21, 2010 8:35 pm

Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 5:23 pm
Posts: 42

Tech Support / luap ffub,

I received my Einsteins today, however one had a broken frosted dome. Are you able to replace it or will I have to buy a new one. I took it out of the box and heard a noise. I thought it was loose springs for the tension. When I took off the black protective dome, there I found the frosted dome broken.

Should I call tech support?




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Thu Oct 21, 2010 10:47 pm

Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 5:23 pm
Posts: 42

FYI

I tried to take some photos of how it was sitting on the light. I'm not sure if it was shipping or packing that broke it. It was sitting on the lamp in a strange way....

I'd like to blame it on UPS. They left it on my door so I couldn't inspect it ...didn't need to sign for it...




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Thu Oct 21, 2010 11:25 pm

Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2010 11:16 am
Posts: 126
Location: three|zero|five

Same deal here. Two of the metal clips holding it looked bent outwards on one of mine, I tried bending them back - not that it mattered since the dome already came shattered. Looks like I'll be purchasing a few extras just in case...

Also one of my large softboxes inner baffle button clip was missing the 'button' piece. So that's two things going back. :? Not ragging on the build quality, as the actual softbox seems like it'll take a good beating and it a breeze to setup. (I'm also starting to understand some folk's gripes with the 22"BD being a 2-piece design :| )

The actual units function flawlessly as far as I can tell (and recycle FAST!!). Lots of power, easy to set.

Not feelin' comfortable with the way the fit of the large softbox at all (Small modifiers work fine) - the weight seems to be pulling on the holding fingers a bit too much - it droops a good amount on the top on all my 3 units; far from a positive lock. I've won't even try attaching it with any sort of low-facing angle or let alone a horizontally-mounted manner (downward-facing softbox). I'm having to keep the lights tilted up to keep it on. Definately won't hold enough to move the light stand with the softbox on, let alone if it's on a boom or flying around in the hands of an assistant moving about. Hasn't fallen off yet, but I'm not pressing my luck... no way.

From the looks of it, in a slight breeze it would easily knock off the softbox from the unit, taking down the dome and cracking the tubes... unless I'm doing something wrong, there's no sort way to lock it, correct? I've given the QR a tug towards 'locking' position, but it only seems to help for a quick second before the cam mechanism gives in a little.




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Thu Oct 21, 2010 11:53 pm

Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2010 11:16 am
Posts: 126
Location: three|zero|five

OK, did some quick tests. Took off the dome, lights & tube one unit & tried it the softbox fit with a few very light 'tugs' with mixed results - facing downward, no problem. The problem seems to be happening when the softbox is at any sort of downward angle.. as if once the speedring passes a certain 'droop' point on the holding finger, it just starts to let go completely. In these cases it came off the light twice and went straight to the floor. Had the dome & tubes been on it would've been messy for sure. Don't get me wrong... the lights/modifiers work really well, no complaints with output whatsoever, but the softboxes just won't stay on... Any ideas, TS? :)


(Sorry Idaband, don't wanna hijack the thread, was just feelin' a bit daunted tryin' to figure this out, ya know... ;) )




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Fri Oct 22, 2010 12:38 am

Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 6:22 pm
Posts: 178
Location: Aiken, SC

I received 3 of the V2's today, and one arrived with a broken diffuser dome. The package had no dents, so can't blame it on UPS. Customer service said they will send a replacement dome.

After reading the comments on the clamps, I attached a stripbox, and then tried to pull it off. Unfortunately, it came right off. Those fingers are supposed to be on a cam that makes it nearly impossible to pull anything off once it's been mounted. Not so. In fact, I can even pull the black bulb protector right off without touching the release arms. This is not a good outcome. It's a show-stopper IMO, and if I were Luap, I would discontinue further shipments until the issue is resolved. With his focus on quality, he will not be a happy camper.

I will call Customer Support this morning to make sure they're aware. Lets hope it's an easy fix.




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Fri Oct 22, 2010 7:25 am

Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 3:09 am
Posts: 73

Seems to be a rash of these; one of mine arrived with a broken dome and modeling light. Making things messier, some glass is still rattling around inside. Naturally, PCB customer service will replace.




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Fri Oct 22, 2010 8:16 am

Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 5:23 pm
Posts: 42

First of all.... sounds good on the glass dome. I will be giving them a call.


I don't have a speed ring at the moment because my softbox was stolen...(long story) ... So I decided to just upgrade to the Einsteins and start a new studio.....

anyways....

Now you all have me concerned about putting a softbox on these... Question I have ...how do you fix this?? Is everyone using speed rings that were made for the Paul C Buff products or are they speedrings that are more generic in shape / size??

I put a reflector on this morning...I thought it was on snug. I know there is no weight to it, but it seemed to fit pretty well in my opinion.

Can anyone post a photo where the clamps are to show how it is slipping off? Are the clamps sliding inward like there’s not enough tention?




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Fri Oct 22, 2010 8:25 am

Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 6:22 pm
Posts: 178
Location: Aiken, SC

I suspect the flaky clamps are the root cause of the broken domes.

The fingers on AB's and WL's were bullet-proof. Something would have broken before you could pull off a mounted softbox. The clamps on Einstein V1 were somewhat loose, but there was little fear of anything falling off. V2 is a totally different story, as the clamps aren't strong enough to do their job. Luap had good intentions by making it easier to release the clamp, but it's (unfornuately) not working up to his standards.

Something's going to hit the fan this morning when Luap reads these posts, and I wouldn't want to be on the downwind side.




Last edited by BigIronCruiser on Fri Oct 22, 2010 8:33 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Fri Oct 22, 2010 8:29 am

Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 5:23 pm
Posts: 42

I'll tell you one thing...NO one wants to pay $500 to have there softbox fall off and bring down the dome and bulbs....

I hope paul sniffs this one out.

Again, I'd really love to see a photo showing how they are falling off. Up close at the clamps when the softbox would be in the position to slip off.


I mean its a no brainer that if we "really" wanted we could wire something up to an old rod and let it go through the top of the light to help "support" the weight...

but lets face it... again... $500 is a lot to have things fall apart.




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Fri Oct 22, 2010 8:40 am

Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2010 11:16 am
Posts: 126
Location: three|zero|five

idaband wrote:
Now you all have me concerned about putting a softbox on these...
... Are the clamps sliding inward like there’s not enough tention?


Well, this may sound strange based on my earlier post(s), but you really shouldn't have much of a problem using a softbox on the light in a static positions while taking shots (as in a studio setting)... It's just that it doesn't really inspire much confidence during any sort of adjustment or movement of the light/stand when a large softbox is mounted: think any sort of dynamic setting like location shooting. As far as your question about the tension strength goes - it's very strong. It's not that the holding fingers don't have enough tension.. you can't move them with your fingers that's for sure; they're tight - the problem lies when a modifier droops and looses contact with the 'lock' against the faceplate (as the modifier angles downward, the speedring travels slightly upward, get me? equal and opposite motion). There's a point where the the angle of the speedring agains holding fingers just causes the fingers to give way and begins to release the ring completely - at least on my 3 units. Hope this helps.




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