Paul C. Buff, Inc. Technical Forum

Hi everyone! I need some help with studio lighting.What can you suggest to get lighting like this? http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=392117364149371&set=o.135129516976&type=1&theater#!/photo.php?fbid=392117364149371&set=o.135129516976&type=1&theater
I have a B800 with a 7ft octabank. But I don't get any DOF ,because my aperture is set to f11 or lower. If I get another fill in light, will I be able to crank up my f/stops and get some DOF, an better/ even ilumination? Or is there another way? My settings in general are: B800 1/32 of power, f/11 or f/13, ISO100, SS 200. Sometimes I use a disk reflector and/or a continuous light, but to be frank the camera doens't even register it.
Thanks for reading! ;)

Without seeing what you are getting now, its hard to say what you are doing "wrong". However, something is not right. A B800 with one of our boxes at 5' and 1/32 power should give you +/- f/2.8, at ISO 100. A larger box should not give you any more power.

So, either your camera has an automatic setting that is compensating (I would suspect ISO), or the light is not adjusting as it is supposed to. Are you using a meter, or are you shooting and reviewing?

Some cameras (seems to mostly be Nikons) appear to be set to a certain ISO, but is actually set to Auto ISO. We hear of this frequently, even from experienced photographers. There is the possibilty there is another setting that could cause this (though I can not think of what that could be at this time).

Next would be the light not adjusting. How are you adjusting the light? Cyber Commander, LG4X, back panel, 3rd party remotes? By using the back panel slider only, can you compare the light output when set to FULL and when set to 1/32 power? There should be a noticable difference between the two. Please do not use the telephone jack when doing this test, and also note the first pop when set to a lower power may dump excess stored energy. Ignore the first pop when set to a lower power. If you can use a meter, that would be best.

I assume you are looking to get a shallower depth of field (i.e. more blurry background)? If you are confident everything is working correctly, backing the light up will reduce the intensity of the light on the subject, allowing for a larger aperture. This will also reduce contrast on the subject, and will help the reflector contribute more to the subject lighting. Given the size of the box, you should still maintain the soft shadows. Using a ND filter on the lens or light will reduce the intensity of light reaching the sensor, forcing a larger aperture as well.

Increasing the distance of subject to BG versus subject to camera will help blur the BG. Also, longer focal lengths at the same f/stop will help decrease DoF.

Incidentally, adding a light would not the DoF matters, and would make them worse, if anything.

TS pretty much said it all... I'll only add that the lighting in your examples doesn't look too complicated and I think you are on the right track... a large modifier camera-right and it looks like a second source or reflector on camera-left to lessen the shadows. Examine the eyes in the examples and you can see where the main light is positioned (slightly different for the two examples). Also notice that is looks like there is a highlight on each side of the necklace indicating the second source or reflector.

Also, it would be good to clarify - are you looking for more DoF (everything in focus) or less / shallow DoF with more blur to the background?

Well Ts, I don't get any variation in the light output when I play with the slide on the back. I took one picture for each power stop, and nothing changes on the picture. I am only using my histogram to check the light. I've been playing with the slide on the back panel and camera settings, and so far I am stuck on the settings I described above. I'm using a cyber commander.And yes, I'm looking to get a shallower depth of field. I already tried to move the subject away from background and the light further from the subject, but not desired results. I want to post a picture that I took, but I don't know how to upload it. Now I need to figure out what is compensating for the light.I am so frustarated.

Well Ts, I don't get any variation in the light output when I play with the slide on the back. I took one picture for each power stop, and nothing changes on the picture. I am only using my histogram to check the light. I've been playing with the slide on the back panel and camera settings, and so far I am stuck on the settings I described above. I'm using a cyber commander.And yes, I'm looking to get a shallower depth of field. I already tried to move the subject away from background and the light further from the subject, but not desired results. I want to post a picture that I took, but I don't know how to upload it. Now I need to figure out what is compensating for the light.I am so frustarated.I've been experimenting with 24-70mm, and 85mm 1.2 and no variation either.Canon 5d MII.

I am looking for a shallow dof. Aparently the photographer that I used as an example has the same light and modifier as I do, but I check the exif on her pictures, and it's constantly at ISO 100, SS160-200, F/4. 50mm. I've been experimenting with 24-70mm, and 85mm 1.2 and everything is flat. As using a reflector on the left, which kind do you suggest? Do you think that she also uses a reflector in front of the subject?

CAKES - forgive me if I'm mentioning stuff you are already doing, just trying to hit each detail here. All this assumes that you are not working in a bright ambient light environment like outside in the sun... Try this:

(*) Set the camera mode to M (manual)
(*) ISO to 100
(*) Shutter speed to 1/125
(*) Aperture to f/4

**EDIT - I changed the shutter speed down to 1/125 which is a safe synch speed, even with a 5D mkII. Also consider using a synch cord for this test to remove other variables due to triggering method.

Now take a series of images while adjusting the light output from lowest to highest while keeping the camera settings and light position exactly the same. You should see a difference in the image brightness and image histograms, especially between minimum and maximum flash output. The goal here is to verify that the light is adjusting output.

If you don't see a difference then you can do a double check to make sure the camera isn't making an auto adjustment that you aren't aware of.... set the light to around half power and take a shot. Now do not adjust any settings but move the light twice as far from the subject and take another shot. The second image should be darker than the first.

If you are trying to duplicate the other photographer's work then use her EXIF for your settings (again in M mode). Now start with the light a few feet from the subject and work your way from the lowest AB output setting upwards until you get the right exposure. For reflectors you do not need anything fancy. I like the collapsible 5-in-1 disc reflectors but I also use white foam core, printer paper, or just about any other large white thing in a pinch. Try putting one reflector on the camera left and angled to bounce light back onto the subject. Maybe a second reflector under the subjects chin to bounce some light up. Focus on the subjects eyes to get them in sharp focus. Start at f/4 but don't be afraid to drop to a lower f/stop to get more background blur... you'll just need to adjust your light output accordingly. There isn't an exact recipe here but this gives you a solid starting point.

Hope this helps and good luck! :P

Both PowerEngineer and TS are steering you in the right direction. Please be sure that your settings are as PE described above.

Also, please advise us how you are triggering the AB800 when you shoot with the camera.

It seems that something fundamental is missing, here, since you get exactly the same exposure no matter what you adjust on the AB power settings. Are you using radio triggers, or are you using your pop up flash to trigger the optical slave on the AB?

It sounds like your camera is not capturing any flash output at all. If the trigger is not working, you won't actually be firing the flash at all, and you may only be seeing the output from the modeling light.

Or your pop up flash might be providing the only flash exposure, and it would be consistent. So if the AB is not firing, adjusting the power settings will not matter, since you would only be seeing the light from your pop-up.

In terms of the lighting issue, the lenses will not make a difference.

Ok, so you are using the Cyber Commander. For the purpose of this test, do not connect the telephone cord, and use the slider and test button. You should be visually able to see the difference with the naked eye. If the telephone cord is plugged in, the slider will not change the output. We need to make sure the light is operational before we incorporate the CC.